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A white dress shirt with a stiff or semi-stiff collar provides the foundation
Though expensive silk brocades were made and used in Italy, if a gown was made of brocade the entire dress would be the same fabric, and not a collection of coordinating brocades as seen in the TV show
The hood styling may also be considered a #CowlDrape with the large tuck and the centre back (CB) line on the fold
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