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The academic, Barthes, was fascinated by the power of clothes to signify meaning, a topic he wrote about in The Fashion System and The Language of Fashion

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One day he came in with handfuls of mussel shells, and he said, "We're going to make a dress out of this." Another day, he said, "Get a student to buy a jigsaw." Then a week later, he went to his house in Fairlight, on the East Sussex coast, and came back with razor-clam shells and said, "We're going to make a dress out of these." Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition catalogue [57] Voss included a large number of showpiece ensembles: elaborate designs meant to convey the idea of a collection and never intended for mass production